I arrived here yesterday afternoon after thoroughly overthinking things/freaking myself out about traveling here alone. Got off the plane and was SO happy to hear people speaking french rather than straight arabic, which I knew they would but even so. A safety net there. Got through customs no problem, took out 500 dirham to get me around the city for the next couple of days, and headed outside for my first real challenge: finding a way into the city, and finding my hostel.
If you're my mother, skip to the part where I get to my hostel otherwise don't freak out. I had a basic idea of how to get to fes from looking at the internet, and decided that although it was more expensive I was going to take a taxi into town rather than busing it. But even so, with the initial culture shock playing upon my institutionally engrained negative cultural stereotypes I was nervous. So I headed outside right outside the airport into the throng of Moroccan men who I assumed were taxi drivers. After hesitantly asking around in french, a man lead me into what I could only assume was a taxi into town. I was so glad that I could speak french, otherwise I would have been much more nervous about navigating the city/transportation (not that they don't speak a basic level of english to get by). We spoke along the way in french about the city and what to see in the medina. The ride from the airport was actually rather lovely, and not that long--maybe 15 minutes.
When we finally got to R'Cif Square near the heart of the medina my driver asked another man to take me to my hostel, but I didn't have the right amount of change to pay the man 150 dirhams for the ride (about 16 USD--still very overpriced rip off for tourists but I didn't care to haggle on the first day when I had no idea how else to get there). The man said he would get me change, and so I trustingly gave him 200 dirhams to break for me at the local store. He came out within a minute with my exact change, which I then paid to the driver and followed the other man down an alley. From the surface, following random Morocoan men into cars and down alleyways may seem a little sketch, but these people were so nice and helpful and really I don't think I would have been able to do it by myself.
He took me to my riyad, Dar Llall Kenza, where I met the hostel manager--Ben. Ben is super interesting character, if not a little bizarre to take in. He sits me down,puts some warm mint tea in my hand, and immediately strikes up a conversation about various things. Normally I HATE mint with a burning passion, but this tea was absolutely to die for. Not supper strong, very sweet and full of flavor. And who can refuse such generous hospitality, no?
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| Beautiful architecture looking up in the riyad |
So I ask him if Ben is the western name he is adopted, which he then goes on to tell me he chose because of its connection to the american movie 'Seven Pounds.' He said he wants to be like Ben, who gave everything he had selflessly to help other people. He wants to be like that, and so his name is something to work towards in becoming the type of person he wants to be. He then goes on to tell me that he can tell when a person wants to sit and get to know him and Moroccoan culture, and when they just want to go up to their room and be by themselves. Essentially he was talking about interpreting way of being, being so spot on about intuitively picking up on people and their attitudes. He's also a big rap/Tupoc fan, immediately putting on some "gangsters in paradise" and blasting it through the riyad.
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| Couches to lounge in in the common area |
The riyad itself is beautiful, an old home that Ben was born in that he recently converted into a hostel. The home dates back to the 13th centrury, but I sware it looks older than that.
After chatting with Ben for a little bit, some other people staying in the hostel began to congregate so I wasn't alone. Turns out a girl I noticed on my flight from Barcelona was actually staying in the hostel, basically my Australian doppleganger--tall, blonde, solo traveler/free spirit. Ironically enough, we are both named after places in each other[s countries--I, Sydney and she, Georgia. We hit it off really well, and after putting our stuff away decided to explore the city together. Wanting to kind of get our barrings, we decided to start off on our own before taking a guided tour around. Which, if you know anything about Fes, is not something you do. This city is crazy complicated.
Stemming from the 9th century, there are over 9,000 streets in the old medina alone and it is VERY easy to get lost. With so many sketch alley ways/corridors, I was glad that the guy who showed me to the hostel showed up and put us in the hands of his friends--Youssef. At first we were very hesitant, as its easy to get ripped off here in Morocco from people trying to take you every where/make you buy things--but he was very genuine and kind. He guided us through the medina, stopping to show us several shops where they make bread/make scarfs before guiding us to one of the palaces in Fes--all the time filling us in on Moroccan culture/history. It was crazy how much we would just walk into this little room, the craftsmen would look up and notice us there, and then continue about their work unperturbed.
After wandering the streets for a bit we ended up at the palace with the most beautiful view of Fes.
Youssef guided us through the palace and gardens, stopping to tell us the best places to take pictures and grabbing local herbs for us to smell. When we got to the bottom Georgia, Youseff and I sat in the grass and talked about life and philosophy. Youseff again spoke about way of being, being very open minded and curious to hear our opinion on things. It was one of those moments, lounging in the grass of a Moroccan palace that you sit back and can't believe life is real--it just seems too good to be true. Good company, good conversation, beautiful places--that's all you need for the simple and peaceful life. Youseff then goes on to tell us a joke I swore I heard forever ago, but it still caught me off guard.
Youseff: "How do you put a camel in a fridge?"
Me: "Um....I have no idea." (thinking its something cultural...)
Youseff: "You open the door, put it inside, and close the door behind the camel."
Touche Youseff, touche.
After chatting in the grass we get back up and start heading back to our riyad. He keeps reassuring skeptical Georgia that he doesn't expect any money, but I can understand Georgia's concern. Last Friday when Georgia was still in Toulouse (South of France) a guy tried to rob her and then ended up punching her in the face. Yeah, it happens. Guess I'm just lucky that the most that's ever happened to me is being silently robbed in Amsterdam.
Youseff then invites us back to his place, where he shows us baby pictures and makes us some fresh tea. The tea here is to DIE for, and his was no exception. He lived in a very very humble little place with his brother and mother, with his brother and polish sister in law living downstairs. We took our tea up to the roof to enjoy the beautiful view of Fes once again. Youseff wanted us to stay for dinner, and his mother pleaded with us as well to join them but Georgia was just a little too scared so we decided to head back to our hostel.
Get back, put our stuff down, and head out for some much needed dinner. Run into Youseff again who leads us up onto this terrace restaurant where we eat delicious pastilla and cheese omlette. There were a billion men gathered around the television downstairs watching the Real Madrid match, which is so funny because they're so into football here but don't have a team for themselves. Seeing big groups of men together is so common here--walking through the markets, its a testosterone fest. Not many women out and about wandering.
After dinner we came back to the hostel and met some of the other people staying her from Austria, Italy, and England respectively. The englishman (surprise surprise) had brought some gin from England since it's illegal to drink here, so we sat around drinking gin and tonics and getting to know one another. Turns out the Austrian couple is from Innsbruck, the graduate school I'll probably be going to so that was fun to ask a little bit about what to expect. Everyone was very lovely, and after it started to get late Ben asked us to go onto the roof to continue our conversation. Sat up there, overlooking the old medina, and soaking in the good conversation.
Next morning we all woke up, had a lovely breakfast, and headed out on our walking tour through the medina. Its generally good to do your first day there to get your barrings, since the medina is very complicated. the guy who led us around was a friend of Ben's, and the tour for 4 hours only cost us 50 dirham (about 6 USD).
I was amazed, and am still amazed, at how easily the moroccan people pick up languages. Our guide spoke English, French, Arabic, and a bit of Korean, Italian, and German. The first three languages are taught in school from a young age, but through talking with others and engaging them in conversation people pick up langauges very fast here. I'm very impressed. We were on a tour with three travelers from South Korea, who he was able to talk to here and there in their own langauge. He led us up and down streets and alleyways for a while, all the way to the blue gate for our first introduction to the marketplace.
We went through the marketplace pretty quick and ended up going to one of the religious madressa school's here, which was so gorgeous and intricate in its architecture (like much of morocco). Afterwards we kept on waking to the tannery where they clean, cut, dye, and dry the animal skins--a major tourist attraction when visiting Fes.
The oldest tannery in all of Morocco, and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site it was absolutely humbling to see these people's hard work and intricate craftsmanship. The entire process of making the hide ready to be made into goods takes about a month, but the leather made here is world famous and very good quality. It's crazy how much people in the West think we work so hard, but these people are doing SO much more for only a fraction of the cost--and in the unbearable animal death stench! Really makes you sit back and evaluate your work ethic. These people are such hard workers, and so kind and genuine. I wish I had more money/space in my bag to support this local artisan work.
We kept walking and went and visited a place where they make scarfs on the loom as well as their own thread from the agave plant. They then invited us further inside where they dressed us up in caftans (traditional moroccan clothes) and served us delicious black tea. Again, very hospitable and nice and I was devastated that I couldn't buy anything. The caftans were really gorgeous--something I would love to have as a wedding dress.I found the most gorgeous white one with lace that I would have loved to buy. Another day, another day.
After visiting a place where they make their own famous argan oil our guide took us to a nice restaurant with another great view over the city. There I had my first couscous, which I was actually surprised wasn't spicier. Still--delicious. So many great fruits and vegetables at that meal--definitely the place to come if you're looking to ge tin shape. Between all of the uphill walking in the medina, to the delicious nutritious food--the pounds will melt away.
After trying to explore by ourselves for a bit, Georgia and I ended up going back to the hostel to relax for a bit. Hooked up with the englishman on the roof while I played my ukulele and Georgia and him read.
I should also mention at this point all of the stray cats around Fes--they are everywhere. Sometimes, little baby kittens that just make me want to die of happiness (even though they're all sad looking and dirty). The one who hangs around our hostel is so pushy--constantly meowing and jumping on our laps until you agree to love it. Which is no problem for me since I love cats, I finally gave into her temptation and passed my ukulele off to the englishman, just sitting there taking in the view and chilling out after a long day of walking/exploring. Probably have kitty herpes now, but I don't even care. Worth it. After that the three of us decided to go for a bit of dinner, a lovely chickpea soup which we had around the corner for only 15 dirham (2 USD).
Today Georgia and I set off to explore the medina unguided, and after a little bit of a rocky start we worked it out. Bought some postcards, and on the way back Georgia and I decided to indulge in a little henna from the nicest woman on the street. Only costing around 2.50 USD, it was so worth it as she was really talented.
Now I sit here in the hostel, waiting another hour before I head out to the airport with the Italian boy from Naples, Daniela, to the airport in a shared taxi. I so wish that I had allotted more time to Fes but also Morocco in general. I'm so impressed with the people, the culture, and the experience in general though that I know this won't be the only time I'll be in Fes. Made some great memories here, met some fantastic people.
Lets see what Italy has in store for me now.
Youseff then invites us back to his place, where he shows us baby pictures and makes us some fresh tea. The tea here is to DIE for, and his was no exception. He lived in a very very humble little place with his brother and mother, with his brother and polish sister in law living downstairs. We took our tea up to the roof to enjoy the beautiful view of Fes once again. Youseff wanted us to stay for dinner, and his mother pleaded with us as well to join them but Georgia was just a little too scared so we decided to head back to our hostel.
Get back, put our stuff down, and head out for some much needed dinner. Run into Youseff again who leads us up onto this terrace restaurant where we eat delicious pastilla and cheese omlette. There were a billion men gathered around the television downstairs watching the Real Madrid match, which is so funny because they're so into football here but don't have a team for themselves. Seeing big groups of men together is so common here--walking through the markets, its a testosterone fest. Not many women out and about wandering.
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| View off the roof towards the medina during the day time |
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| Our guide: Gandalf. |
Next morning we all woke up, had a lovely breakfast, and headed out on our walking tour through the medina. Its generally good to do your first day there to get your barrings, since the medina is very complicated. the guy who led us around was a friend of Ben's, and the tour for 4 hours only cost us 50 dirham (about 6 USD).
I was amazed, and am still amazed, at how easily the moroccan people pick up languages. Our guide spoke English, French, Arabic, and a bit of Korean, Italian, and German. The first three languages are taught in school from a young age, but through talking with others and engaging them in conversation people pick up langauges very fast here. I'm very impressed. We were on a tour with three travelers from South Korea, who he was able to talk to here and there in their own langauge. He led us up and down streets and alleyways for a while, all the way to the blue gate for our first introduction to the marketplace.
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| The Fes Tannery |
The oldest tannery in all of Morocco, and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site it was absolutely humbling to see these people's hard work and intricate craftsmanship. The entire process of making the hide ready to be made into goods takes about a month, but the leather made here is world famous and very good quality. It's crazy how much people in the West think we work so hard, but these people are doing SO much more for only a fraction of the cost--and in the unbearable animal death stench! Really makes you sit back and evaluate your work ethic. These people are such hard workers, and so kind and genuine. I wish I had more money/space in my bag to support this local artisan work.
Usually a mans job, here he weaves together over 4,000 strands of thread to make a scarf. He can usually make about 2 a day, and has been doing this for over 40 years as his father did before, and his son will continue to do. This man has never been to school, but he still speaks 6 different languages and is picking up more every day talking with people. So nice!
After visiting a place where they make their own famous argan oil our guide took us to a nice restaurant with another great view over the city. There I had my first couscous, which I was actually surprised wasn't spicier. Still--delicious. So many great fruits and vegetables at that meal--definitely the place to come if you're looking to ge tin shape. Between all of the uphill walking in the medina, to the delicious nutritious food--the pounds will melt away.
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| My little baby |
I should also mention at this point all of the stray cats around Fes--they are everywhere. Sometimes, little baby kittens that just make me want to die of happiness (even though they're all sad looking and dirty). The one who hangs around our hostel is so pushy--constantly meowing and jumping on our laps until you agree to love it. Which is no problem for me since I love cats, I finally gave into her temptation and passed my ukulele off to the englishman, just sitting there taking in the view and chilling out after a long day of walking/exploring. Probably have kitty herpes now, but I don't even care. Worth it. After that the three of us decided to go for a bit of dinner, a lovely chickpea soup which we had around the corner for only 15 dirham (2 USD).
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| Such a beautiful design, complete with Fatima |
Today Georgia and I set off to explore the medina unguided, and after a little bit of a rocky start we worked it out. Bought some postcards, and on the way back Georgia and I decided to indulge in a little henna from the nicest woman on the street. Only costing around 2.50 USD, it was so worth it as she was really talented.
Now I sit here in the hostel, waiting another hour before I head out to the airport with the Italian boy from Naples, Daniela, to the airport in a shared taxi. I so wish that I had allotted more time to Fes but also Morocco in general. I'm so impressed with the people, the culture, and the experience in general though that I know this won't be the only time I'll be in Fes. Made some great memories here, met some fantastic people.
Lets see what Italy has in store for me now.
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